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For Easter April 15, 2001 Easter, this season, is April 15 th , 2001 which is considered a late Easter date. This schedule is a general guide for pot cooled Easter Lilies; for case cooled see paragraph below. This schedule is to be used only as a guide. Past experience and your style of growing should always be your primary guide. Case cooled bulbs should be put in cooler or other cool place upon arrival and stored at 55F to 65F until October 26 th ,2000. They also need to be checked often for moisture, and wet down if needed. (DO NOT ALLOW BULBS TO WARM TO 70F OR ABOVE AT ANYTIME FROM TIME OF ARRIVAL TILL 5" TALL AS ERRATIC GROWTH AND LOW BUD COUNT WILL RESULT!) On October 26 th , 2000, vernalization begins. Lower temperature to 40F to 45F and keep watching moisture content as vernalization is a cool moist process. Also, sprouting needs to be monitored and if it becomes too heavy, drop temperature to 35F. Temperature should be brought up to 63F on December 7 th . Bulbs should be allowed to warm in the case two days. Cooling starts from the outside of case, and it will warm from the outside also, giving the same cooling time for bulbs in the center of the case as on the outside. Follow October 23 rd instructions for potting, then skip to December 7 th instructions and grow the same as pot cooled from here on. As this is a late Easter date, this schedule has a two week temperature dip treatment to enhance bud count starting January 15 th. This is a good time to catch up if you are behind. If you are behind do not do the temperature dip until you have caught up. For example, if you are one week behind, only give one week of temperature dip, if two weeks behind do not do temperature dip treatment. Raise the temperature three days before you want to start forcing again, as it takes some time for the lilies to start responding after this cool treatment. One last comment on vernalization, during this process bulbs are kept in tightly closed coolers. CO-2 levels can rise, as can ethylene gas levels. These both have detrimental effects on bulb crops. For ethylene control you need to have a clean cooler as anything rotting will give off ethylene gas, as will propane powered forklifts. As for CO-2 venting at regular intervals can help. But do not vent from an area were exhaust gas from a boiler or heater can contaminate the air. There are notes on potting, drenching and other concerns at the bottom of
this page. And as always, if you need further assistance please contact us or
your supplier as early as possible. Most problems can be corrected with enough
time.
Potting:
Potting should be done as early as possible to allow root growth. The bulb should be placed deep in the pot as Easter lilies grow mostly from their stem roots. The pot should also be as deep as possible, not a 3/4 or azalea pot. The soil should offer good drainage, as root problems are one of your main concerns.
Drenching:
Drenching for fungus (Pythium, Rhizoctonia, and Fusarium) and bulb mites at planting is highly recommended. Oregon State law prohibits us from making any chemical use recommendations. You can contact your extension agent or state university for such recommendations.
Insurance Lighting:
Insurance lighting is to be used if bulbs did not receive enough cooling in the vernalization process. To start insurance lighting give plants 15-foot candles incandescent light from 10 pm to 3 am, maintaining temperature about 65F. One night will substitute for one lost day of cooling.
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