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Easter Lily Forcing Schedule
For Easter April 20, 2003
Easter, this season, is April 20 th, 2003 which is considered a late
Easter date. This schedule is a general guide for pot cooled Easter Lilies; for
case cooled see paragraph below. This schedule is to be used only as a guide.
Past experience and your style of growing should always be your primary guide. (DO
NOT ALLOW BULBS TO WARM TO 70F OR ABOVE AT ANYTIME FROM TIME OF ARRIVAL TILL
5" TALL AS ERRATIC GROWTH AND LOW BUD COUNT WILL RESULT!)
Case cooled bulbs should be put in cooler or other cool place upon arrival
and stored at 55F to 65F until October 31 st, 2002. They also need to
be checked often for moisture and wet down if needed. On October 31 st,
2002, vernalization begins. Lower temperature to 40F to 45F and keep watching
moisture content as vernalization is a cool moist process. Also, sprouting needs
to be monitored and if it becomes too heavy, drop temperature to 35F.
Temperature should be brought up to 63F on December 13 th. Bulbs
should be allowed to warm in the case two days. Cooling starts from the outside
of case, and it will warm from the outside also, giving the same cooling time
for bulbs in the center of the case as on the outside. Follow October 29 th,
instructions for potting, then skip to December 13 th, instructions
and grow the same as pot cooled from here on.
As this is a late Easter date, this schedule has a two week temperature dip
treatment to enhance bud count starting January 20 th. This is a good
time to catch up if you are behind. If you are behind do not use the temperature
dip until you have caught up. For example, if you are one week behind, use give
one week of temperature dip, if two weeks behind do not use the temperature dip
treatment. Raise the temperature three days before you want to start forcing
again, it takes some time for the lilies to respond after this cool treatment.
One last comment on vernalization, during this process, bulbs are kept in
tightly closed coolers. CO-2 levels can rise, also ethylene gas levels. These
both have detrimental effects on bulb crops. For ethylene control you need to
have a clean cooler, anything rotting will give off ethylene gas, as will
propane-powered forklifts. CO-2 venting at regular intervals can help. Be
careful not to vent were exhaust gas from a boiler or heater can contaminate the
air.
There are notes on potting, drenching and other concerns at the bottom of
this page. And as always, if you need further assistance please contact your
supplier or us as early as possible. Most problems can be corrected with enough
time.
Date:
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Days to Easter:
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Comments:
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October 29, 2002
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174
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Bulbs have arrived by now. Upon arrival, plant deep in pot
and drench bulbs immediately. Never let
temperature rise above 70F. If rooting period is done in cooler, set
temperature at 63F, to stimulate root growth.
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October 31, 2002
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171
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Start cooling process (vernalization) at 40F- 45F. Keep moist as
bulbs that become too dry will not cool properly. If bulbs start to
sprout heavily, bring temperature down to 35F. Cool for six weeks (42
days).
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December 12, 2002
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129
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Move pots to greenhouse; cooling is finished. If a crew is not
available, turn cooler up to 65F. Bulbs can stay in the cooler if not
sprouted; however if they have sprouted they need to be moved
immediately to avoid stretching.
Start temperature in greenhouse at a constant 65F or if preferred 63F
night 68F day which gives an average 65F. DO NOT GO OVER 70F AT THIS
TIME, AS THIS WILL DELAY FLOWERING.
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December 16,2002
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125
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Check roots for disease problems, drench if necessary. Start feeding
program.
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December 23, 2002
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118
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First plants start to emerge.
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December 30,2002
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111
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50% of crop emerged. Check roots for problems. Drench as necessary.
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January 06, 2003
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104
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Most of crop should be up. Start insurance
lighting if you know you did not have enough cooling. Start tracking
for height control.
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January 13, 2003
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97
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Check roots for problems. Shoots should be 2 inches tall.
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January 20,2003
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90
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Buds should now be forming. Shoots 3 - 5 inches tall. If you feel you
have sufficient time, you can start temperature dip treatment to enhance
bud count. This year we have allowed a two-week temperature dip because
of the late Easter. Some people may prefer to force regularly to finish
out earlier and put plants in cooler at the end to free up their
greenhouse for bedding plants. However if you are on time and want to
finish normally start temperature dip now by lowering temperature to 50F
night 60F days or an even 55F day and night.
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January 27,2003
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83
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Plants should be growing very slowly and not be under very much
stress, so now would be a good time to apply a fungicide for root
problems, next week the temperature is going back up and plants will
need a good root system.
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January 31,2003
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79
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We still have three days before our 2 weeks of temperature dip is
finished, but it takes some time for lilies to respond to the warmer
temperatures you are going to give them. Set temperature to a constant
65F or if preferred 63F night and 68F day.
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February 10, 2003
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69
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Shoots 5 - 6 inches tall. Start leaf counting and adjust temperature
accordingly, space lilies and check roots.
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February 17, 2003
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62
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Shoots 6 inches tall. Adjust temperatures for timing and height
control.
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February 24, 2003
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55
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Check roots, and continue monitoring temperatures. Shoots 8 inches
tall.
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March 03, 2003
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48
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Some plants may start showing buds. Shoots 9 inches tall.
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March 10, 2003
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41
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Half of crop has visible bud. Watch roots closely from now to the
end, The plants are growing very fast now and any root problems will
cause lower leaf yellowing. Also insects will become more prevalent on
the tender buds now coming out.
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March 17, 2003
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34
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Bud 1 inch long now. Use bud stick. Watch height and pests. Shoots 11
inches tall.
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March 24, 2003
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27
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Buds 2 inches long. Shoots 12 - 13 inches tall.
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March 31, 2003
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20
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Buds 4 inches long. Shoots 13 - 15 inches tall. Some buds may be in
white puffy stage. These may be moved to cooler at 40F.
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April 07, 2003
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13
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Shoots 16 inches tall. Watch roots and pests. Monitor temperature, as
there is not much time left.
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April 14, 2003
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6
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All lilies should be shipped.
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April 20, 2003
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0
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Easter Sunday. Happy Easter!
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Potting should be done as early as possible to allow root growth. The bulb
should be placed deep in the pot as Easter lilies grow mostly from their stem
roots. The pot should also be as deep as possible, not a 3/4 or azalea pot. The
soil should offer good drainage and the addition of some bark has been suggested
to control some root problems, however, more nitrogen will be needed. With any
soil used keep in mind that root problems are one of your main concerns.
Drenching for fungus (Pythium, Rhizoctonia, and Fusarium) and bulb
mites at planting is highly recommended. Most people seem to be using Subdue and
Terriclor, however, neither one of these seems to control Fusarium. You will
need to add a good Fusarium control when lilies are potted as Fusarium left
unchecked early on can cause spindly stems, split flowers, low bud count, and a
very uneven crop. That is about all we can say, Oregon State law prohibits us
from making any chemical use recommendations. You may contact your extension
agent or state university for specific recommendations.
Insurance lighting is to be used if bulbs did not receive enough cooling in
the vernalization process. To start insurance lighting give plants 15-foot
candles incandescent light from 10 PM to 3 AM, maintaining temperature about
65F. One night will substitute for one lost day of cooling.
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