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Easter Lily Forcing Schedule
For Easter April 11, 2004
Easter, this season, is April 11 th , 2004 which is considered a mid
Easter date. This schedule is a general guide for pot cooled Easter Lilies; for
case cooled see paragraph below. This schedule is to be used only as a guide.
Past experience and your style of growing should always be your primary guide. (DO
NOT ALLOW BULBS TO WARM TO 70F OR ABOVE AT ANYTIME FROM TIME OF ARRIVAL TILL
5" TALL AS ERRATIC GROWTH AND LOW BUD COUNTS WILL RESULT!)
Case cooled bulbs should be put in cooler or other cool place upon arrival
and stored at 55F to 65F until October 29 th , 2003. They also need
to be checked often for moisture and wet down if needed. On October 29 th ,
2003, vernalization begins. Lower temperature to 40F to 45F and keep watching
moisture content as vernalization is a cool moist process. Also, sprouting needs
to be monitored and if it becomes too heavy, drop temperature to 35F.
Temperature should be brought up to 63F on December 11 th . Bulbs
should be allowed to warm in the case two days. Cooling starts from the outside
of case, and it will warm from the outside also, giving the same cooling time
for bulbs in the center of the case as on the outside. Follow October 27 th
instructions for potting, then skip to December 11 th instructions
and grow the same as pot cooled from here on.
As this is a mid Easter date, this schedule has a one-week temperature dip
treatment to enhance bud count starting January 19 th. This is a good
time to catch up if you are behind. If you are behind do not do the temperature
dip until you have caught up. For example, if you are one week behind, do not do
temperature dip treatment. Raise the temperature three days before you want to
start forcing again, as it takes some time for the lilies to start responding
after this cool treatment.
One last comment on vernalization, during this process bulbs are kept in
tightly closed coolers. CO-2 levels can rise, as can ethylene gas levels. These
both have detrimental effects on bulb crops. For ethylene control you need to
have a clean cooler as anything rotting will give off ethylene gas, as will
propane-powered forklifts. As for CO-2 venting at regular intervals can help.
But do not vent from an area were exhaust gas from a boiler or heater can
contaminate the air.
There are notes on potting, drenching and other concerns at the bottom of
this page. And as always, if you need further assistance please contact your
supplier or us as early as possible. Most problems can be corrected with enough
time.
Date:
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Days to Easter:
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Comments:
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October 27, 2003
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166
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Bulbs have arrived by now. Upon arrival, plant deep in pot
and drench bulbs immediately. Never let
temperature rise above 70F. If rooting period is done in cooler, set
temperature at 63F, to stimulate root growth.
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October 29, 2003
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164
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Start cooling process (vernalization) at 40F- 45F. Keep moist as
bulbs that become too dry will not cool properly. If bulbs start to
sprout heavily, bring temperature down to 35F. Cool for six weeks (42
days).
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December 11, 2003
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122
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Move pots to greenhouse; cooling is finished. If a crew is not
available, turn cooler up to 65F. Bulbs can stay in the cooler if not
sprouted; however if they have sprouted they need to be moved
immediately to avoid stretching.
Start temperature in greenhouse at a constant 65F or if preferred 63F
night 68F day which gives an average 65F. DO NOT GO OVER 70F AT THIS
TIME, AS THIS WILL DELAY FLOWERING.
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December 15, 2003
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118
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Check roots for root problems, drench if necessary. Start feeding
program.
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December 22, 2003
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111
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First plants start to emerge.
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December 29, 2003
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104
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50% of crop emerged. Check roots for problems. Drench as necessary.
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January 05, 2004
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97
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Most of crop should be up. Start insurance
lighting if you know you did not have enough cooling. Start tracking
for height control.
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January 12, 2004
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90
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Check roots for problems. Shoots should be 2 inches tall.
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January 19, 2004
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83
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Buds should now be forming. Shoots 3 - 5 inches tall. If you feel you
have time, you can start temperature dip treatment to enhance bud count.
This year we have allowed a one-week temperature dip because of the mid
Easter date. Some people may prefer to force regularly to finish out
earlier and put plants in cooler at the end to free up their greenhouse
for bedding plants. However if you are on time and want to finish
normally start temperature dip now by lowering temperature to 50F night
60F days or an even 55F day and night. Plants should be growing very
slowly and not be under very much stress, so now would be a good time to
apply a fungicide for root rots as next week the temperature is going
back up and plants will need a good root system.
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January 23, 2004
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79
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This date is three days before our one-week is up, but it takes some
time for lilies to respond to the warmer temperatures that you are going
to give them. Set temperature to a constant 65F or if preferred 63F
night and 68F day.
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February 02, 2004
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69
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Shoots 5 - 6 inches tall. Start leaf counting and adjust temperature
accordingly, space lilies and check roots.
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February 09, 2004
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62
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Shoots 6 inches tall. Adjust temperatures for timing and height
control.
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February 16, 2004
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55
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Check roots and continue monitoring temperatures. Shoots 8 inches
tall.
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February 23, 2004
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48
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Some plants may start showing buds. Shoots 9 inches tall.
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March 01, 2004
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41
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Half of crop has visible bud. Watch roots closely from now to the
end, as the plants are growing very fast now and any root problems will
cause lower leaf yellowing. Also insects will become more prevalent on
the tender buds now coming out.
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March 08, 2004
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34
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Bud 1 inch long now. Use bud stick. Watch height and pests. Shoots 11
inches tall.
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March 15, 2004
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27
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Buds 2 inches long. Shoots 12 - 13 inches tall.
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March 22, 2004
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20
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Buds 4 inches long. Shoots 13 - 15 inches tall. Some buds may be in
white puffy stage. These may be moved to cooler at 40F.
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March 29, 2004
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13
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Shoots 16 inches tall. Watch roots and pests. Monitor temperature, as
there is not much time left.
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April 05, 2004
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6
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All lilies should be shipped.
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April 11, 2004
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0
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Easter Sunday. Happy Easter!
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Potting should be done as early as possible to allow root growth. The bulb
should be placed deep in the pot as Easter lilies grow mostly from their stem
roots. The pot should also be as deep as possible, not a 3/4 or azalea pot. The
soil should offer good drainage and the addition of some bark has been suggested
to control some root problems, however, more nitrogen will be needed. With any
soil used keep in mind that root problems are one of your main concerns.
Drenching for fungus (Pythium, Rhizoctonia, and Fusarium) and bulb
mites at planting is highly recommended. Most people seem to be using Subdue and
Terriclor, however, neither one of these seems to control Fusarium. You will
need to add a good Fusarium control when lilies are potted as Fusarium left
unchecked early on can cause spindly stems, split flowers, low bud count, and a
very uneven crop. That is about all we can say, as Oregon State law prohibits us
from making any chemical use recommendations. You may contact your extension
agent or state university for specific recommendations.
Insurance lighting is to be used if bulbs did not receive enough cooling in
the vernalization process. To start insurance lighting give plants 15-foot
candles incandescent light from 10 pm to 3 am, maintaining temperature about
65F. One night will substitute for one lost day of cooling.
This schedule prepared courtesy of Oregon Lily Company. If you have any
questions or comments, please feel free to contact us at:
Oregon Lily Company
15696 Hwy 101 South
Brookings, OR 97415
Phone:
1 (800) 469-9432
(541) 469-9432
Fax:
(541) 469-0563
email:
comment@easterlilies.com
Website:
www.easterlilies.com
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