Easter 2005 Schedule


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Easter Lily Bulbs

Easter Lily Forcing Schedule
For Easter March 27, 2005

Easter, this season, is March 27 th , 2005 which is a early Easter date. This schedule is a general guide for pot cooled Easter lilies; for case cooled see paragraph below. This schedule is to be used only as a guide. Past experience and your style of growing should always be your primary guide.

If you are case cooling your own bulbs they should be put in the cooler or other cool place upon arrival and stored at 55F to 65F until October 21 st ,2004. They also need to be checked often for moisture, and wet down if needed. (DO NOT ALLOW BULBS TO WARM TO 70F OR ABOVE AT ANYTIME, FROM TIME OF ARRIVAL UNTIL 5" TALL, AS ERRATIC GROWTH AND LOW BUD COUNT WILL RESULT!) On October 21 st , 2004, vernalization begins. Lower temperature to 40F to 45F and keep watching moisture content as vernalization is a cool moist process. Also, sprouting needs to be monitored and if it becomes heavy, drop temperature to 35F, as this should stop stem elongation. Temperature should be brought up to 66F on December 2 nd . Bulbs should be allowed to warm in the case two days. Cooling starts from the outside of case and takes a couple of days for the center to get to temperature, and it will warm from the outside also, giving the same cooling time for bulbs in the center of the case as on the outside. Follow October 18 th instructions for potting, then skip to December 2 nd instructions and grow the same as pot cooled from here on.

For this early Easter date we have taken out the one-week temperature dip treatment that we had for the last mid Easter date. If you were late last year and used this time to make up for lost time, you may want to bring up the temperature to make up for lost time before making it past bud initiation. We recommend that you do not raise temperatures above 68F before bud initiation is over (shoots 5-6 inches). Raising temperatures before this stage will actually delay flowering and lower bud count considerably. The time to make up for lost time is after bud initiation. If you have questions, please give us a call at 1 (800) 469-9432. Also, for this early Easter date we are starting out at 65F and lowering temperature to 62F during bud initiation (shoots 3-5 inches) to enhance bud count.

One last comment on vernalization, during this process bulbs are kept in tightly closed coolers. CO-2 levels can rise, as can ethylene gas levels. These both have detrimental effects on bulb crops. For ethylene control you need to have a clean cooler, since anything rotting will give off ethylene gas, as will propane-powered forklifts. As for CO-2, venting at regular intervals can help. But do not vent from an area where exhaust gas from a boiler or heater can contaminate the air.

There are notes on potting, drenching and other concerns at the bottom of this page. And as always, if you need further assistance please contact us or your supplier as early as possible. Most problems can be corrected with enough time.


Date:

Days to Easter:

Comments:

October 18, 2004 160 Bulbs have arrived by now. Upon arrival, plant deep in pot and drench bulbs immediately. Never let temperature rise above 70F. If rooting period is done in cooler, set temperature at 63F, to stimulate root growth.
October 21, 2004 157 Start cooling process (vernalization) at 40F- 45F. Keep moist as bulbs that become too dry will not cool properly. If bulbs start to sprout heavily, bring temperature down to 35F. Cool for six weeks (42 days).
December 2, 2004 115 Move pots to greenhouse; cooling is finished. If a crew is not available, turn cooler up to 66F. Bulbs can stay in the cooler if not sprouted; however, if they have sprouted, they need to be moved immediately to avoid stretching.

Start temperature in greenhouse at a constant 66F or if preferred 64Fnight 68 day which gives an average 66F). DO NOT GO OVER 70F AT THIS TIME, AS THIS WILL DELAY FLOWERING.

December 6, 2004 111 Check roots for root problems, drench if necessary. Start feeding program.
December 13, 2004 104 First plants start to emerge.
December 20, 2004 97 50% of crop emerged. Check roots for problems. Drench as necessary.
December 27, 2004 90 Most of crop should be up. Start insurance lighting if you know you did not have enough cooling. Start tracking for height control and apply growth regulators as needed.
January 3, 2005 83 Check roots for problems. Shoots should be 2 inches tall.
January 10, 2005 76 Buds should now be forming. Shoots 3 - 5 inches tall. Move temperature to 62F to start temperature dip treatment to enhance bud count. This will be the only time the lilies will be slowed during this season. So now would be a good time to do any fungicidal drenching and pest sprays as the lilies are not under a lot of stress, and if you are behind you will need a good root system when you start pushing to make up for lost time.
January 17, 2005 69 Shoots 4 - 6 inches tall. Start leaf counting and adjust temperature accordingly, space lilies and check roots.
January 24, 2005 62 Shoots 6 inches tall. Adjust temperatures for timing and height control.
January 31, 2005 55 Check roots and continue monitoring temperatures. Shoots 8 inches tall. Lilies should be treated for pests at this time, as chemicals applied at visible bud can abort buds, especially with high levels of spreaders You will not want to apply any unsafe pesticides from now until most buds are 1 inch long
February 7, 2005 48 Some plants may start showing buds. Shoots 9 inches tall.
February 14, 2005 41 Half of crop has visible bud. Watch roots closely from now to the end, as the plants are growing very fast now and any root problems will cause lower leaf yellowing.
February 21, 2005 34 Bud 1 inch long now. Use bud stick. Watch height and pests. Shoots 11 inches tall. Also insects will become more prevalent on the tender buds now coming out.
February 28, 2005 27 Buds 2 inches long. Shoots 12 - 13 inches tall.
March 7, 2005 20 Buds 4 inches long. Shoots 13 - 15 inches tall. Some buds may be in white puffy stage. These may be moved to cooler at 40F.
March 14, 2005 13 Shoots 16 inches tall. Watch roots and pests. Monitor temperature, as there is not much time left.
March 21, 2005 6 All lilies should be shipped.
March 27, 2005 0 Easter Sunday. Happy Easter!

Potting:

Potting should be done as early as possible to allow root growth. The bulb should be placed deep in the pot as Easter lilies grow mostly from their stem roots. The pot should also be as deep as possible, not a 3/4 or azalea pot. The soil should offer good drainage and the addition of some bark has been suggested to control some root problems, however, more nitogen will be needed. With any soil used keep in mind that root problems are one of your main concerns.

Drenching:

Drenching for fungus (Pythium, Rhizoctonia, and Fusarium) and bulb mites at planting is highly recommended.Most people seem to be using Subdue and Terriclor, however, neither one of these seems to control Fusarium. You will need to add a good Fusarium control when lilies are potted as Fusarium left unchecked early on can cause spindly stems, split flowers, low bud count, and a very uneven crop. hat is about all we can say, as Oregon State law prohibits us from making any chemical use recommendations. You may contact your extension agent or state university for specific recommendations.

Insurance Lighting:

Insurance lighting is to be used if bulbs did not receive enough cooling in the vernalization process. To start insurance lighting give plants 15-foot candles incandescent light from 10 pm to 3 am, maintaining temperature about 65F. One night will substitute for one lost day of cooling.





This schedule prepared courtesy of Oregon Lily Company. If you have any questions or comments, please feel free to contact us at:




Oregon Lily Company
15696 Hwy 101 South
Brookings, OR 97415

Phone:
1 (800) 469-9432
(541) 469-9432

Fax:
(541) 469-0563

email:
comment@easterlilies.com

Website:
www.easterlilies.com

 

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